Rest day (sort of) in Namche Bazaar—April 5

Sign on the toilets at Panorama Lodge: "Please Do Not Flush Just for Pea."

I seem to sleep in fits and starts at night, but I am careful to not keep looking at the clock until I sense that daylight is imminent. At 5 or 5:30, I just get up. It was 48 degrees in my room this morning—not too bad considering it's unheated and we're at 11,300'. It's basically a plywood box with windows on two sides. When the Dutch couple next door walk around their room, my windows shake. His snoring could have been on the pillow next to me last night.

This morning's payoff was a cloudless sky and a stunning view of the snow-peaked mountains that appear to be within arm's reach. Ordered a latte before breakfast—what a gift. May be my last chance for one.

view from my bedroom window

At 8:00, Ben gave us a lecture about AMS, pressure breathing and rest stepping. Then we set off up the hill out of town. Our destination was Everest View Lodge to, you guessed it, try to catch a view of the tippy top of the mountain. We crested the top of the hill and had a fabulous view of Ama Dablam and Lhotse swaddled in clouds, but no Everest.

First view of Ama Dablam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

break during rest day acclimatization hike

View from above Namche

 On the descent, almost back in town, we intersected a train of loaded yaks. We crossed between yaks and caused a bit of yak confusion. The yaks that were ahead doubled back, and the yaks approaching didn't know where to go. We were surrounded by yaks, their big bells clanging. They didn't seem aggressive, but they do sport sizable horns. The herder finally got them rounded up and headed back up the hill.

The climbing team/family members have bathrooms and showers in their rooms here. We (the trekkers) share toilets and a sink down the hall. Marc (climber) and his girlfriend, Tennielle, kindly offered me the use of their shower. I let the water run for more than 5 minutes, and it never ventured away from ice cold. Given the choice between being cold or remaining dirty, I'll stay dirty, thank you. Might go for a personal best of 20 days of dirty. After a certain point, it really doesn't matter. It's funny that some of the trekkers want to wash their hair and clothes every day. And one of them announced that yesterday's hike was the hardest thing he'd ever done.