Saw incredible stars during another rather sleepless night. Woke up just before daybreak and started organizing gear as Dan and Stuart wanted an earlier start. The muleteer taking me across the river dropped me off only halfway across, and I quickly realized there was more deep water ahead. He brought Liz over next, and I made him take her all the way and then come back for me.
We covered a lot more vertical today, much of it in soft sand and scree along the narrow edge of the ravine over the river--not a lot of margin for error. The weather was quite hot, but then black clouds started gathering and we worried about an impending rainstorm. Only a couple drops fell and then the clouds moved off in the direction we had come from. We had a second river to cross and Dan carried me across on his back--more help for my feet. Around 4:00 we wandered into Base Camp and set up the tents where we'll stay for the next three nights. Tomorrow will be a rest day.
Base Camp is quite a sprawling operation--lots of semi-permanent domed tents and pitched tents. We use local outfitter Grajales here for food, and we even eat in a tent with tables and chairs. Lots of chuckles at dinner--altitude induced, no doubt. My muscles feel good, but I'm tired because I haven't been sleeping much. Starting to carry a heavy pack will change things significantly.
We had a spectacular view of the mountain today, and she appeared calm and welcoming. I'm sure we'll see another side of her.
~6 miles, 3500' vertical to 13,800'
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