Saturday, May 8, 2010

Athens

 

If we had arrived just one day prior, we may have seen or heard the gas tank of a torched car exploding only half a block from our hotel. Or we may have witnessed the bank fire that took three people's lives just around the corner and down the street. It's a time of unrest in Athens, but we were fortunate to stay clear of any violence. There was a huge police presence near Parliament, fully suited to squelch any unruly protesters. Due to the recent strikes, huge piles of garbage disgraced many sidewalks and corners. Though the economy is certainly in crisis mode, it hardly seems evident in the more touristy areas of the city.
The city of Athens is a bit at odds with itself. On one side is the grandeur of historic Athens; on the other is one of the most densely built and sprawling cities I have ever seen, teeming with over 5 1/2 million people. I'm not quite sure what happened to Greece's architectural splendor through the ages, but the modern buildings have no redeeming qualities.

I can't imagine visiting Athens in the summer. Holding the Olympics here during August was cruel and unusual punishment. The weather was perfect for us--about 80 degrees and breezy. But the sky, even when it's blue, always garners a thin layer of urban haze. The crowds were present, but manageable. I certainly would not want to attempt a visit to the Acropolis elbow to elbow with the summer hordes.
After a short night of rest and breakfast at our hotel, we wound our way through the narrow lanes of the Plaka, slowly gaining ground on our way to the highest point of the city. Photos of the Acropolis and its buildings can't possibly do it justice. Only standing alongside these humongous structures can give you the proper sense of scale. Like Machu Picchu, the whole site is a bit mind blowing. Hard to fathom how it was constructed long before the advent of modern machinery and cranes.

We were happy to be staying at a hotel close to all that we wanted to see. Traffic is horrendous in the city, and driving is hair raising. Using one's own two feet is highly preferable. We walked miles around Plaka, the National Gardens, the old Olympic stadium, the Temple of Zeus, and the new Acropolis Museum (very impressive). We learned, somewhat, how to fend off all the owners begging us to eat at their tavernas. People-watching was one of our favorite pastimes, along with nibbling on Greek food (delicious) and sipping ouzo (a little goes a long way).

Is Athens worth a visit? Yes, a short one, preferably in May or September. Fly in, see what you want to see, and then get out. With a couple more days to kill before our hiking trip starts, we are now on our way to Rhodes, Greek but just a stone's throw from Turkey.

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