Dingboche to Lobuche to Gorak Shep—April 11-12

The route from Dingboche to Lobuche was gradual except for one challenging hill up to the Climbers and Sherpas Memorials. The wind picked up, and it was snowing as we entered Lobuche, a mish-mash of a town built on the moraine. The lodge was packed to the brim, the dining room reminiscent of a ski lodge. Decent food, but the rooms and bathrooms were an all-time low. There weren't enough rooms, so I lost my chance for a single and was instead put in a triple with two of the other female trekkers. One snored like a truck driver all night long—no sleep for me. Had to run down the frigid hallway at 2 AM after some stomach rumblings. The bathroom was enough to make me gag—worse than the outhouse at Camp Muir.

Lobuche

Six climbers/family members decided they wanted to hike to Gorak Shep with the trekkers so they'd have a chance to climb Kala Pattar, an outing not on the schedule for the climbers. We were told if there weren't enough rooms at the teahouse in Gorak Shep, they would have to bunk in the common room. It didn't play out that way. They got three double rooms on the floor with the bathroom, and we were put in an upstairs loft, no bathroom, a triple again. I know I didn't pay a single supplement on the way up, but I also didn't pay for a triple. I can't function on no sleep, so I'll be sleeping on the dirty floor in the common room of the loft. Since the others encroached upon our original plans, the trekkers should have had priority. It's not their fault, but the guides should have managed it differently. I ended up dragging a mattress out of the triple and positioning it on the floor. A mangy dog (whose?) curled up in the room with me.

The hike from Lobuche to Gorak Shep was spectacular—clear blue skies and gigantic peaks on all sides. We got a view of the Icefall, Base Camp, and the very top of Everest. Stopped at the Italian Research Center on the way up—a pyramid built of solar panels, where research on glaciers and pollution is performed.

a long yak train

Italian Research Center

Everest!

 

 

The steep sections of the trail are more difficult at 16,000+'. Yesterday, I floated up the trail; today took more effort. I have never had sore legs afterwards, though. Just have to stay healthy and rested before Island Peak.

To Everest Base Camp tomorrow! Up Kala Pattar and then all the way down to Dingboche on Saturday.