Namche to Phakding—April 20

This is not my favorite part of the Khumbu—no more views of the towering peaks, the trails are crowded, and I'm so dirty that I almost can't stand it anymore. As we descended the steep hills from Namche, it was clear that Friday and Saturday are market days there. The trail was not only packed with clean newbies, but also with hundreds of porters carrying goods up to Namche. Seemed as if many of the newbies had never walked on rocks before, as they painstakingly picked their way from stone to stone. I put on my iPod, which helped me dance down the rock stairways. Concentration is key, or a trip or fall is imminent. With the thicker air comes higher temperatures and a general feeling of lethargy. My nose is like a faucet, and my dry cough prevents me from sleeping soundly.

The day started out crystal clear in Namche, but clouds now hang over Phakding. On the way up, our rooms at Sunrise Lodge had attached baths. This time, we're in bigger rooms but have no bathrooms. Guess my first shower since April 2 will be in Kathmandu. A new personal record (personal "best" doesn't sound appropriate)—20 days (I think Aconcagua was only about 2 weeks). Even if I could shower today, I still only have my miniscule towel, and I'd have to struggle back into my rancid clothes. It will be far more satisfying to don some clean duds.

Up, yes "up," to Lukla tomorrow (about 600 vertical feet) and then an early-morning flight to Kathmandu on Sunday.

near the bottom of the steep trail to Namche